RT Pro's RZR XP 1000 SHD (Super Heavy Duty) Radius Rod Kit will replace the weak factory radius rods with a substantially stronger design. Here's the fix for the weakest link on the RZR XP 1000. These Radius Rods are a direct bolt-on replacement and work with the OEM trailing arm and knuckle/spindle. They are 1.25" dia. USA tubing and use 5/8" FK heim joints. The rods have a little room for adjustments for the inclined rider to tweak the handling a little bit if desired. The adjustment provided from this kit is the static camber settings. By adjusting the rear camber one can control how aggressive the bite of the rear tire is in a corner and find a preferred balance of understeer / oversteer which is how much the machine pushes or slides out in a corner. This setting while controlling handling going into a corner, can also fine tune traction coming out of a turn.
This kit includes the chosen radius rods, heim joints and high misalignment spacers needed for installation. The factory bolts are re-used and there is no modification to the vehicle necessary.
Installation Note: To fit this large of tubing in to this application, some XP 1000's will require VERY MINOR filing to allow for the needed clearance of the trailing arm and our lower rods. It's a minimal amount and shown in our instructions. The affected area is also shown on the last pic on this page.
Q: Why straight radius rods?
A: A lot of people have asked about our stance on bent lower rods for better ground clearance and why we haven't offered them. Here is where we stand on the subject; the issue with any bent / trussed/ etc. design (beside the inherent weakness added by having a rod that's already bent) is the additional leverage applied when something does try to wrap around the bar and tug on it. When it's a straight tube there is only a two dimensional push/pull on the rod. If it's a bend of any kind it's a three dimensional situation and the center to center axis of the ends becomes a fulcrum point for the bent tube to rotate about while it's being pulled or pushed. Essentially the rod will just try to flop around. The biggest issue with this particular application is the ends need to be a form of a spherical joint to work with the motion of the suspension. If this was some sort of a bushing/sleeve application the bent rod would be no problem. These new rods are going to be very hard to bend or break even if they do hit something.