1. Our reduction is engineered to work specifically with your RZR, Turbo, Ranger, General or Ace.
2. Our ratios use a simple percentage. Our "10" is a easy to understand 10% reduction to whichever model you own and the new 19 is 19%. Whatever your car's final drive ratio was stock, our 10 will give you a 10% reduction (good for up to 3 tire sizes) and 19 is a big 19%.
3. Engineered to be used as a primary reduction and will also compound existing "gearstack" reductions. If you already use an in-transmission reduction (Turner, SATV or Polaris other model changeout) ours will give you an additional 10 or 19%. Also if you own a High Lifter or the Newly released "Gold" Rock Crawler you would see a 10 or 19% final drive reduction in addition to your stock reduction. Have portals and want a deeper final drive reduction? We got you covered there too.
4. Our reduction happens closer to the wheels. This should be important to you because all drivetrain gears between the wheels and the reduction gearset see the same load and stress as if there were no reduction present. That's right, your reduction is only benefiting your drivetrain from where the reduction resides in the transmission to your engine. Many of us have off road backgrounds and know from experience that when you run larger tires on your Jeep, Bronco or Blazer that you change the ring & pinion in the front and rear axles to compensate for the higher effective final drive of the larger tires. Which brings us to a good question- Why don't we do the same thing with the RZR? The short answer is, we can. But.. The cost of remachining and manufacturing the intricate and somewhat complicated one-piece Hilliard front ring gear and parallel shaft rear drive would mean a stratospheric retail price. Optimum did the next best thing. Having the reduction as close to the wheels as possible means less stress and shock load to the clutches, and transmission of your RZR. An unfortunate side effect of existing reduction set-ups is idler shaft caused case fractures due to the reduction being taken at the gear stack. We virtually eliminate the chance of thrust load case fracture due to two reasons. Our reduction takes place at the pinion shaft and we use a straight cut (spur) gear to negate thrust load on the idler shaft (the shaft that causes most case fractures).
5.Aerospace quality with Nascar toughness. Gears and shafts are 9310 steel alloy, the same material used in Nascar. The result is an extraordinarily tough gear with very good wear and good noise characteristics.
6. Made in the U.S.A. by our friends at Mendeola Transaxles.
Gear reduction or clutch kit?
Putting bigger tires on your side by side is one of the first changes from stock that many of us make. The smoother ride, ground clearance improvements and lower rolling resistance are a big plus for most drivers. There are also downsides with big tires . Larger diameter tires change (increase) the effective final drive ratio and that change subjects your stock geared transmission and clutches to greater load and stress. Have you ever mistakenly tried to climb a steep hill in high gear and been greeted with a smoking drive belt? Although being in the wrong gear does not compare to running 32" or larger tires on your RZR, over hundreds and thousands of miles the cumulative effects start to show in the form of transmission wear and decreased belt life.
Clutch kits and performance clutch work is one of the easiest ways to gain performance from your CVT drivetrain and with larger tires you can return your engine to the powerband it was designed to run in. But, unless you are actually changing the diameter of your clutches you're not correcting the tire size problem. Gear reduction is the best and most direct way of getting back lost acceleration and protecting your driveline and drive belt. With drive belts costing upwards of $200 having the right gearing will save you money in a very short time.
Look to us for side by side drivetrain and chassis products that perform.